Alex Holder

Belfast & Giant's Causeway

In search of mighty sessions and timeless pubs

Thessaloniki, Santorini, Athens, Volos, Lemnos, Mykonos, Olympia, Rhodes, & Crete

Reykjavik was home base this trip. I had wrestled with the idea of Laugavegurinn's volcanic 35 miles before we flew overseas. I had settled upon the decision to attempt it next time. I figured I'd be tired after doing 111 miles around Mont Blanc. My legs were sore, but I talked Erin into taking the bumpy 4WD bus out to Landmannalaugar. After a chilly night of camping, fighting the ever-present condensation in my Zpacks Duplex, Erin declined. It would take at least 3 days of hiking to get to Porsmork and she wasn't enthused. Unfortunately, we had our summer bags with us from the TMB and even in August they were inappropriate for Iceland. With Erin on the 3 hour bus ride back, I set out. The best way to warm up was to get moving. Sulphur wafted in and out of my nostrils throughout the day. You smell geothermal features before seeing them. The elevation gain on this trek is nothing compared to the TMB so I was able to finish this "4-day" trek in one day. 35 miles with several chilly river crossings, but not too bad. Speaking of the river crossings. For miles on this trek I felt like I was the last person on Earth. I could see in all directions and the solitude was stunning. I would run into groups mainly on uphill jaunts and at the river crossings. Groups of tour guide led patrons with packs off were tugging dry boots off to wade through bare foot. Time suck! I forged ahead without changing anything, pack held overhead. Beer and hot food awaited me at Porsmork!

We completed the backpacking circuit in 8 days, passing through 3 countries around the Mont Blanc massif, camping and staying in alpine chalets and auberges along the way. I would do this hike again in a heart beat! Words fall short of how fantastic this trek was.

Naples, Rome, Florence, Amalfi Coast, Messina, Venice, Cinque Terre National Park

Bike ride from Koper to Piran

Valletta, caught in time

Walking through Diocletian's palace in Split. Fresh pomegranate juice.

Sarande day walk

We arrived in Salzburg after taking a train from Munich. The rain held off long enough to do some sightseeing, which included Fortress Hohensalzburg.

A short train ride away from Switzerland, Munich was a fun city to explore for a few days. I wasn't expecting river surfers in the middle of the city, but the Eisbach was a fun surprise. We visited the chilling Dachau labor camp.

After completing our Mont Blanc Trek, we caught a train to Geneva to start our extensive Switzerland trip. Flying by the seat of our pants, we purchased a Swiss rail pass. I can't emphasize how convenient the Swiss train timetables are. The trains are comfortable, always on time, and almost affordable if you buy a pass in advance. Overall, the most memorable part of Switzerland was how expensive it was. Beautiful land, nice people, timeless culture but the exchange rate was slaying our American dollars. Especially memorable was the raclette cheese and world class chocolate. We traveled to Zurich, Geneva, Basel, St. Gallen, Augusta Raurica, Lucerne, Lausanne, Montreux, and Bern.