Iceland and the Laugavegurinn Trek
Reykjavik was home base this trip. I had wrestled with the idea of Laugavegurinn's volcanic 35 miles before we flew overseas. I had settled upon the decision to attempt it next time. I figured I'd be tired after doing 111 miles around Mont Blanc. My legs were sore, but I talked Erin into taking the bumpy 4WD bus out to Landmannalaugar. After a chilly night of camping, fighting the ever-present condensation in my Zpacks Duplex, Erin declined. It would take at least 3 days of hiking to get to Porsmork and she wasn't enthused. Unfortunately, we had our summer bags with us from the TMB and even in August they were inappropriate for Iceland. With Erin on the 3 hour bus ride back, I set out. The best way to warm up was to get moving. Sulphur wafted in and out of my nostrils throughout the day. You smell geothermal features before seeing them. The elevation gain on this trek is nothing compared to the TMB so I was able to finish this "4-day" trek in one day. 35 miles with several chilly river crossings, but not too bad. Speaking of the river crossings. For miles on this trek I felt like I was the last person on Earth. I could see in all directions and the solitude was stunning. I would run into groups mainly on uphill jaunts and at the river crossings. Groups of tour guide led patrons with packs off were tugging dry boots off to wade through bare foot. Time suck! I forged ahead without changing anything, pack held overhead. Beer and hot food awaited me at Porsmork!
